In the world of pro-aging — that is, caring for your skin as you age — retinoids rule. These vitamin A derivatives have strong research showing they smooth fine lines and wrinkles, create a more luminous, even complexion, and fight acne. One type of retinoid you may not be familiar with yet is retinaldehyde, also known as retinal (not to be confused with retinol, a less-potent form of retinoid).

So why might you just be hearing about it now? “Retinol has been the most common over-the-counter retinoid ingredient, but there has been great innovation in topical retinoids in recent years, and we’re now seeing retinaldehyde appear more often in formulas,” says Noëlle S. Sherber, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and a clinical associate professor of dermatology at George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences in Washington, DC.

Read on to get the 411 on this buzzy ingredient, including how it compares with other forms of vitamin A, and inspiration for adding it to your skin-care routine.

Retinoids, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinaldehyde all belong to the family of vitamin A derivatives. The most potent form you can get is retinoic acid, available in prescription form as tretinoin (Retin-A), explains Dr. Sherber. It is this form — retinoic acid — that acts directly on the skin. The other forms, which are available in over-the-counter topical products, must first be converted into retinoic acid before they can start their work in the skin.

Once this process converts retinaldehyde to retinoic acid, the ingredient gets to work in the skin.

“Skin cells and sebaceous cells (oil glands) have receptors for retinoic acid,” says Lauren Fine, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology. She notes that retinoic acid can boost skin-cell turnover to unclog pores and clear hyperpigmentation, increase skin thickness over time, and stimulate collagen production. The potential results: reduced discoloration, improved texture, and minimized fine lines and wrinkles.

Plus, she says, retinoic acid can lower the skin’s oil production and has anti-inflammatory effects on P. acnes bacteria, which play a role in the formation of acne.

This vitamin A derivative may help you achieve that glow-from-within skin. “Retinaldehyde will help keep pores clear and will speed skin cell turnover for a smoother and more even complexion. This is a great ingredient for improving skin texture and tone if used correctly,” says Sherber.

Companies often market retinaldehyde as a less-irritating form of retinol than retinoic acid, says Dr. Fine. That said, it’s likely not as effective at decreasing the signs of wrinkles and pigmentation as the prescription topical, she says.

There are ways to buffer these side effects, which we’ll outline below in how to add it to your routine.

Another important note: If you have a skin condition such as rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis, it’s important to ensure that your condition is well controlled before you introduce any retinol product, including retinaldehyde, Fine says. “If you begin from a place where your skin barrier is compromised, it will only become more irritated,” she says. If your skin is in a good place, start the application slowly, as advised below, and consult your dermatologist.

In the beginning, use your retinaldehyde product two or three times per week, Friedler advises. With use, your skin will adapt and tolerate it better, at which point you can increase the frequency. It’s okay to use retinaldehyde daily, as long as you aren’t experiencing irritation.

Save retinaldehyde products for nighttime use, she says: “They can be deactivated by sunlight, as well as make your skin more sensitive to the sun.” Be sure to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 in the morning to protect against this extra sun sensitivity.

On nights when you use retinaldehyde, Friedler suggests a chocolate chip–size amount. Avoid layering it with other exfoliants (such as glycolic or lactic acid, or vitamin C). To decrease the potential for flakiness, apply a water-based hydrator (a clear or milky serum containing glycerin or hyaluronic acid) after cleansing, then the retinaldehyde product, and then follow up with a moisturizer on top, advises Sherber. Then, enjoy the glow!

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